French Polynesia

French Polynesia – Tahiti, Bora Bora & Moorea

French Polynesia had been on our bucket list for years. We had seen countless photographs of its turquoise lagoons, dramatic volcanic peaks, and iconic overwater bungalows, but nothing prepared us for seeing it in person. From the moment our plane descended over Bora Bora’s shimmering lagoon, we knew this would be a trip we would never forget.

We traveled during the holiday season, from December 23, 2022, to January 2, 2023, spending time on three spectacular islands—Tahiti, Bora Bora, and Moorea. Although all three belong to the Society Islands of French Polynesia, each offered a completely different experience. Bora Bora dazzled us with its luxury and postcard-perfect scenery, Moorea charmed us with its lush mountains and local culture, while Tahiti surprised us with its black sand beaches, waterfalls, and relaxed island life.

About French Polynesia

French Polynesia is a breathtaking French overseas territory in the South Pacific made up of 118 islands and atolls, spread across an astonishing 5.3 million square kilometers (2 million square miles) of ocean—an area roughly the size of Europe. Despite this vast expanse, the total land area is only about 4,167 square kilometers (1,609 square miles).

The islands are grouped into five archipelagos:

• Society Islands (includes Tahiti, Bora Bora, Moorea, Huahine, Raiatea, Taha’a, and Maupiti)
• Tuamotu Islands
• Marquesas Islands
• Gambier Islands
• Austral Islands

Within the Society Islands, there are two groups:

• Windward Islands (Îles du Vent): Tahiti, Moorea, Tetiaroa, Maiao, and Mehetia.
• Leeward Islands (Îles Sous-le-Vent): Bora Bora, Raiatea, Taha’a, Huahine, Maupiti, and Tupai.

Tahiti, Bora Bora, and Moorea are all part of the Society Islands, the most famous of French Polynesia’s five archipelagos. While Tahiti and Moorea belong to the Windward Islands, Bora Bora lies in the Leeward Islands. Each island offers its own unique landscape, culture, and experiences, making the Society Islands the heart of French Polynesian tourism.

Capital: The capital city is Papeete, located on Tahiti, the largest and most populated island.

Language: French and Tahitian are the official languages

Currency: French Polynesia uses the French Pacific Franc (XPF).

Weather: French Polynesia enjoys a tropical climate year-round, with warm temperatures ranging from 24–30°C (75–86°F). The dry season, from May to October, is considered the best time to visit, while the wetter months from November to April offer lush landscapes and fewer crowds.

Marine Life: Beyond its famous over-water bungalows, French Polynesia is home to one of the world’s richest marine ecosystems, with vibrant coral reefs, manta rays, sharks, dolphins, sea turtles, and thousands of tropical fish. Its lagoons are protected by coral reefs, creating calm, crystal-clear waters ideal for snorkeling, diving, paddle boarding, and kayaking.

 

Top Places to Visit in French Polynesia

Tahiti : The largest island and the gateway to French Polynesia, Tahiti offers black sand beaches, waterfalls, botanical gardens, lively markets, museums, and beautiful coastal drives. It provides an authentic glimpse into Polynesian culture beyond the luxury resorts.

Bora Bora : Often called the “Pearl of the Pacific,” Bora Bora is famous for its turquoise lagoon, Mount Otemanu, luxurious overwater bungalows, white-sand beaches, and world-class snorkeling.

Moorea : Just a 30-minute ferry ride from Tahiti, Moorea is known for its dramatic mountain peaks, lush valleys, pineapple plantations, scenic viewpoints, and spectacular lagoon.

Rangiroa : One of the world’s largest atolls, Rangiroa is a paradise for scuba divers, offering incredible drift dives, dolphins, sharks, and abundant marine life.

Fakarava : A UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, Fakarava attracts divers from around the world with its pristine coral reefs, crystal-clear waters, and large schools of reef sharks.

Huahine : Nicknamed the “Garden Island,” Huahine offers archaeological sites, quiet villages, tropical forests, and a slower pace of life.

Taha’a : Known as the “Vanilla Island,” Taha’a produces much of French Polynesia’s famous vanilla and is surrounded by beautiful coral gardens perfect for snorkeling.

Marquesas Islands : Remote and rugged, the Marquesas are known for dramatic cliffs, ancient Polynesian culture, horseback riding, and spectacular hiking.

Our Itinerary

• Day 1 : SFO → Papeete, Tahiti
• Day 2 : Tahiti → Bora Bora. Check in to Hotel Royal Bora Bora. Drive around the island. Sunset at Matira Beach.
• Day 3 : Jet Ski around Bora Bora island. Beach time. Dinner at Restaurant Tama’s Maitai.
• Day 4 : Check in to Intercontinental Thalasso Bora Bora. Snorkeling, kayaking, paddleboard, Coral Gardens, Polynesian show.
• Day 5 : Bora Bora → Moorea. Check in to Manava Beach Resort.
• Day 6 : Albert’s 4×4 Cultural Island Tour of Moorea. Pineapple farms, Magic Mountain, juice & liquor tasting.
• Day 7 : Lagoon Tour — snorkeling, swimming with rays and sharks, lunch in the ocean.
• Day 8 : Moorea → Tahiti.
• Days 9–10 : Tahiti — island drive, caves, botanical gardens, black sand beaches.
• Day 11 : Tahiti → SFO

Bora Bora

I don’t think there are enough words to describe Bora Bora. The moment our plane began its descent, we were captivated by the breathtaking lagoon below. Every shade of blue imaginable stretched beneath us, from deep sapphire to brilliant turquoise and we simply couldn’t look away. It is, without exaggeration, one of the most beautiful places on Earth.

Bora Bora is a small volcanic island covering just 29.3 km² (11.3 sq mi), located about 230 km northwest of Papeete in the Leeward Islands of French Polynesia. At its heart rise the dramatic peaks of an extinct volcano—Mount Pahia and the iconic Mount Otemanu, which stands 727 metres (2,385 ft) above the lagoon. Encircled by a vibrant coral reef, Bora Bora’s crystal-clear lagoon is renowned for its mesmerizing shades of turquoise and emerald, making it one of the world’s most photographed tropical destinations.

A fascinating piece of history surprised us: during World War II, Bora Bora served as an American military supply base under Operation Bobcat. Nearly 7,000 U.S. troops were stationed on the island, though it never experienced combat, and several of the coastal defense guns remain as reminders of that era.

Getting There & Getting Around

We flew from Papeete to Bora Bora on Air Tahiti, a short 50-minute flight that turned out to be one of the most scenic flights we’ve ever taken. As the plane descended, the brilliant shades of turquoise and sapphire surrounding the island were simply mesmerizing. Even after landing at Bora Bora’s airport—located on its own small motu (islet)—the views were breathtaking. Standing outside the terminal, we couldn’t stop admiring the crystal-clear lagoon.

Since Bora Bora has no public transportation, we rented a car from Avis to explore the island at our own pace. Although our reservation was at their Matira Beach office, they kindly delivered the car to the Vaitape ferry terminal, where we arrived by airport shuttle boat. Driving around the island was easy and allowed us to stop whenever a beautiful viewpoint caught our eye. The entire island can be circled in about an hour without stops, making it perfect for a leisurely drive. Bicycles, scooters, and two-seater buggies are also popular ways to explore this tropical paradise.

Bloody Mary’s Restaurant

Our first stop after arriving was the famous Bloody Mary’s. It is one of Bora Bora’s most iconic restaurants, and we had to make it our first meal. Since it was Christmas Eve, we had limited vegetarian options, but the desserts more than made up for it. A great start to the island!

Sunset at Matira Beach

Matira Beach is undoubtedly the gem of Bora Bora—and it’s easy to see why it’s consistently ranked among the world’s best beaches. On our very first evening, we headed there to watch the sunset, and it was nothing short of magical. Soft white sand, crystal-clear turquoise water, swaying palm trees, and the silhouette of Mount Otemanu glowing in the golden evening light created a picture-perfect scene.

Hotel Royal Bora Bora

We stayed at Hotel Royal Bora Bora for our first two nights. It’s a very clean and friendly property within walking distance of Matira Beach and several good restaurants. The greenery around the rooms is beautiful, and the beach views are lovely. The food for lunch was really tasty, and the concierge was super helpful for booking activities. A few things to know: rooms are on one side of the road and the pool/restaurant/beach are on the other. The Wi-Fi was unreliable during our stay, and the mosquitoes can be annoying around the rooms. But overall, a lovely base for exploring the island.

Living the Overwater Bungalow Dream

For our final night in Bora Bora, we checked into the InterContinental Bora Bora Resort & Thalasso Spa, fulfilling a long-time dream of staying in an overwater bungalow. This resort is on its own private motu (islet), accessible by a 10-minute boat shuttle from the Le Moana resort. It’s a true overwater bungalow experience.

Every moment felt magical.

We kayaked across the lagoon, paddle-boarded over coral gardens, snorkeled among colorful tropical fish, and watched the sunset from our private deck.

That evening we attended a wonderful Polynesian cultural show and even learned how to prepare Poisson Cru, French Polynesia’s national dish made with fresh fish marinated in coconut milk and lime.

Everything about the resort—from the service to the breathtaking scenery was simply exceptional.

Jet Ski Around the Island

On Christmas morning, we did a jet ski tour around Bora Bora  and this was one of the highlights of the entire trip. We booked a session starting at 9:50 AM and spent about four hours exploring the island from the water. The different shades of the ocean as you move from deep water to shallow lagoon are absolutely stunning. They also served fresh fruits on one of the motus during the tour. Loved every minute of it.

Bora Bora Wrap-Up

Bora Bora is simply one of those places that lives up to every expectation — and then some. Here’s a quick recap of what we did:

• Overwater Bungalow
• Lunch at Bloody Mary’s
• Drive around the full island
• Sunset, swim & dinner at Matira Beach
• 4-hour jet ski tour with fresh fruit tasting on a motu
• Snorkeling at the Coral Gardens
• Kayaking & paddleboarding at the Thalasso
• Polynesian cultural show & poisson cru cooking demo

If we go back, we’d love to add a lagoon cruise to swim with stingrays and sharks, and maybe a sunset catamaran ride.

Moorea

From Bora Bora, we flew back to Papeete and then took a ferry to Moorea. We chose the Aremiti ferry (there are two,  Aremiti and Terevau). The ride takes about 30 minutes and is a lovely journey across turquoise waters. Moorea is a greener, quieter, and more “local” experience compared to Bora Bora. It has a very different energy – lush valleys, pineapple farms, and a lagoon that rivals Bora Bora for colour. We stayed at the Manava Beach Resort.

Albert’s 4×4 Cultural Island Tour

One of the highlights of our stay in Moorea was joining Albert’s famous 4×4 Cultural Island Tour. Conveniently located directly across from the Manava Beach Resort, the tour began with an easy morning pickup.

Our guide shared fascinating insights into Moorea’s history, culture, and agriculture, with plenty of stops along the way. One of the highlights of the tour was visiting Moorea’s famous pineapple plantations. Our guide explained how pineapple plants are propagated from suckers that grow around the mother plant and are kept for several production cycles before being replaced. He also mentioned that it takes about nine months for a pineapple to mature—about the same as a human pregnancy! According to our guide, much of the farmland is government-owned and leased to local families, and many of the pineapples are supplied to neighboring islands, including Bora Bora, as well as to the Rotui Juice Factory for juices, jams, and fruit liqueurs. Whether every detail was exact or not, it was fascinating to learn about one of Moorea’s most important agricultural industries while standing right in the middle of the plantations.

The drive up to Magic Mountain was an adventure in itself. The narrow road was incredibly steep and bumpy, and at one point our driver even had to reverse down part of the hill! The excitement quickly faded once we reached the summit, where breathtaking panoramic views of Moorea’s lush mountains, twin bays, and vibrant lagoon stretched out before us.

We wrapped up the tour with a tasting of freshly squeezed pineapple juice, tropical jams, and locally made fruit liqueurs—a delicious way to end an unforgettable day exploring Moorea.

Moorea Lagoon Tour – Swimming with Rays and Sharks

Our second full day in Moorea was dedicated to the lagoon tour, and it turned out to be one of the most unforgettable experiences of the trip.

We snorkeled in crystal-clear waters, swimming alongside graceful stingrays and drifting through a lagoon filled with blacktip reef sharks. Although their presence can feel intimidating at first, the sharks are small, typically up to about 1.7 metres and completely harmless to swimmers, feeding mainly on fish. After a few moments in the water, their calm, effortless movements quickly replace any initial fear with fascination.

One of the most unique highlights was lunch itself, served while standing waist-deep in the lagoon. Sitting in the water, eating a meal surrounded by the open ocean, felt like a very distinctly French Polynesian experience.

During the boat ride, we were also lucky enough to spot dolphins playing in the distance. The lagoon around Moorea feels incredibly alive—clear, active, and full of movement in every direction. It’s the kind of place that’s best understood not by description, but by simply getting in the water.

Rudy’s Restaurant

For dinner on our last night in Moorea, we went to Rudy’s — a local favourite and definitely worth a visit. Casual, good food, great atmosphere.

Moorea Wrap-Up

• Albert’s 4×4 Cultural Island Tour — pineapple farms, Magic Mountain, local tasting
• Lagoon tour – snorkeling, swimming with rays & sharks, lunch in the ocean
• Dolphin spotting during the boat ride
• Dinner at Rudy’s

If we return, we’d love to hike the Belvedere trail, explore the waterfalls, and visit Tiki Village.

Tahiti

Tahiti was our base at the start and end of the trip — and it surprised us. We stayed at the Intercontinental Tahiti, which has overwater bungalows right on the lagoon. We drove around Tahiti Nui (the main, larger island — it connects to a smaller island called Tahiti Iti). Some things we did and saw:

• The famous black sand beaches around the island
• A beautiful white sand beach at PK 18
• Botanical gardens and water lily gardens
• Sea caves
• Snorkeling at the hotel’s lagoonarium — turtles, long fish, and so many reef fish right outside the overwater bungalow
• Swimming pools at the hotel
• Dinner and Polynesian show

Papeete itself has a lively market area and is easy to walk around for shopping. The ferry terminal is close to the centre, making logistics simple.

Tahiti island drive

Food

 

Wildlife We Spotted

The underwater world of French Polynesia is something truly special. Here are some of the incredible fish and creatures we saw while snorkeling:

• Blacktip Reef Sharks
• Stingrays & Eagle Rays
• Sea Turtles (4 big ones in one snorkeling session in Moorea!)
• Ocellaris Clownfish (Nemo!)
• Parrot Fish, Butterfly Fish, Puffer Fish
• Sergeant Major fish
• Peacock Flounder
• Dolphins (spotted from the boat in Moorea)

 

French Polynesia is one of those rare destinations that genuinely exceeds expectations. The water colours, the warmth of the people, the incredible wildlife, the overwater bungalows, the fresh food — all of it comes together into something magical. If we did it again, we’d spend one more day in Bora Bora (for the lagoon cruise with rays and sharks), add a hike in Moorea, and do the 4×4 interior tour of Tahiti. But honestly, we have zero regrets about this trip. It was perfect.

If we return, and we certainly hope we do—we’ll spend a few extra days in Bora Bora exploring more of the lagoon, hike Moorea’s scenic trails, and venture deeper into Tahiti’s mountainous interior.

Trip Dates: 12/23/22 to 1/2/23